A Little On The Chilly Side

Because the lifts were currently closed weekdays in Grimentz and Zinal, I hopped on the bus, caught the train and headed round to Zermatt for a few days. I would have been on the slopes by about 10am, but was delayed slightly trying to find a working locker for my bags in the basement of the station in Zermatt.

I made it up to Trockener Steg and met up with friends Steve and Nina for a quick ski down the Black run from Furgg to Furi. The run was in great condition, but it's a little dark in the afternoons so early in the season.

Zermatt had it's best party frock on for Christmas, but there was no escaping the really cold weather!

 

Yes, I'm wearing a Balaclava and a Buff. What you can't see, is the 2 pairs of thermal underwear as well!
I've not skied in consistently cold weather like this before, this was day after day in temperatures past -20c plus wind chill. I got chatting to some guys from Zurich in a gondola, one of them had Frostbite on his face, skiing in shades with no scarf, not nice!

I caught the Gornergrat Railway one day, to ski a little lower down, it was just as cold! Lovely views though.

I was very pleased with my Hotel choice. If I tell you where it is, then it will be full next time I want to visit! Lets just say, economical, traditional, friendly, superb buffet, warm and central. My room had a balcony with this view. The hotel was pretty full, and each morning I said Guten Morgen to a woman on an adjoining table. Turned out she was French and from Paris!

A txt one night saw me meeting up with another friend Tino, in the Brown Cow bar, for a quick beer. Several beers, much talking and 3 hours later......
It was great to chat and catch up on news, though I did feel a bit guilty as he had to get up at 5am next day!
The slope conditions during my stay were firm. The pisteurs had done an excellent job in keeping the snow cover, and were topping up with snow cannons during the day. This was the first visit on which I'd been able to ski to Zermatt village, because of good snow cover, and the first time I'd never skied from the top lift, which was closed to skiers because of stormy weather. The off piste was all windblown and crusty, horrible!.

On the way back down to Visp, I passed this.

In the village of St Nicklas of course!

Five Months of Skiing

Well, not 5 months in total, but last winter I managed to ski in 5 different months. Some months were definitely better than others. March and April were rather warm for skiing, but I did my best!I'd like to think that my skiing has improved a little, but it's difficult to judge. Perhaps I'm now on the right equipment for my needs. I did fall over a few times, the most memorable falls were when I had no skis on! Ski boots are not made for walking on ice!

I did try the high traverse on this slope, so some of these tracks are mine. I found it quite steep though.


There was plenty of spring powder to be had, close to the pistes. Once the resort had closed for the season, I headed for Zermatt, staying in a little B&B, and walking up to the Klein Matterhorn lift.

This was a bit of luxury. The new gondola was operating between the base station, all the way to Trockner Steg. A seat all the way!
Last time I was in Zermatt the lift company were building a restaurant at the top of the Klein Matterhorn. It's now complete, and to reach the cafe or toilets, it's necessary to walk through the gift shop, just in case I should feel the need to buy a T shirt or mug! Coffee is good, and the view is wonderful. Much more comfortable than the Portacabin that was here on my last visit.



The glacier slopes were in great condition, but I'd never seen so much of the glacier exposed on earlier visits.


I was summarily fleeced at Trockner Steg. I'd forgotten to put my water bottle in my sack, so paid 6Sfr for a small bottle which was priced up at 80 cents in the supermarkets in the village.

Seeking a better value alternative, I followed an "Open" sign for the Gandegghutte. The piste runs underneath the KM cable car, and some of it is uphill. When I arrived, the staff out laying the tables, went inside and locked the door. One to avoid!

Though the glacier was in great shape, some of the lower runs were a little thin. This slope leads down to Furi from Furgg. Rocks, grass and mud with some wet snow, with a walk out at the end! This is not the village, it's well above it.

I decided to catch the gondola over to Riffelberg and then the train up to Gornergrat. Wonderful views, and it was fun to be on a train as a skier. I raced the train back down to the gondola.

On my way back down to the village one day, the lift company were running the old cable cars, so I was treated to the view of old and new together. Underneath it's possible to see the piste running down to the village. Based on how thin the piste was higher up, I didn't try the ski down.

Patrouille des Glaciers

Whilst in Zermatt recently I was fortunate to see the start of the mountain race between Zermatt and Verbier. This only takes place every 2 years and it's pretty tough. There were hundreds of soldiers in Zermatt to manage the start and the preparations. I was quite surprised at the large numbers of the media there, but when lots of exotic looking skis filled up the ski room in my hotel, I realised it was a pretty big event.

During the afternoon the army band officially opened the event by marching through the village.



The start on this, the first night, was outside the main railway station in the centre of the village, and the main street was fenced and roped off by nightfall.

I bagged a position along the fence near to the start and was in place to see the tape go down and a row of soldiers hold back the racers until the official count down is over. The soldiers make a run for the fence and the competitors surge forwards.



Most of them were wearing trainers, and had their ski boots fixed into their bindings on their skis, strapped onto their packs. As I walked back to the comfort of my (now) quiet hotel, I imagined that I would be having a much better nights sleep than any of the racers (who skied and climbed all night).